A land of riders…
Raiding, or ‘riding’ as it was commonly known, was carried out by reivers who rode hardy Hobbler ponies or nags of that time. They were notorious raiders, as they skilfully rode through the boggy Tarras Moss lands. Dressed in a woven wool plaid in the early days of reiving, this was in later years replaced by ‘light’ armour such as a ‘jack of plate’, and helmets of steel, nicknamed the “steel bonnets”.
Border Reiver Trail
Embark on a captivating 60-mile journey through the rugged Scottish-English borderlands, where history comes alive.
Welcome to what was once a tumultuous frontier—known as the Wild West of its time. The Anglo-Scottish border reiver region, once lawless and untamed, invites you to travel back in time. Explore the ruins of castles and pele towers and uncover gripping stories of horror and heroism. Though many of these historic sites were destroyed following the Union of the Crowns in 1603 when James VI of Scotland became James I of England, the remnants still whisper tales of daring deeds and legendary figures, lying in kirkyards and meandering under grassy hillsides.
Today, this land is peaceful. But 500 years ago, the thunder of hooves and the clash of steel echoed across these valleys as the infamous Border Reivers raided under the cover of night. This was life on the border—a battleground where England and Scotland clashed, and survival meant turning to theft and raiding. What began as a necessity became a way of life: “But war’s the Borderers’ game… their gain, their glory, their delight, to sleep the day, to maraud the night…”
From the 14th to 17th century, these riding and raiding families—known as the Reivers—spread fear across both sides of the border. For 300 years, no one could sleep safely, and no livestock was ever truly secure. A constant state of warfare created chaos, leading to the birth of words like “bereaved” and “blackmail.” Nowhere else in Europe experienced such a prolonged breakdown of civil disorder, on this scale.
Join us as we guide you through the Border Reiver Trail, where history and legend meet.
Join us as we guide you through the Border Reiver Trail, where history and legend meet.
Start Your Journey
Click on the waypoints on the map below to begin your adventure. Scroll beyond the map for more information about the sites
Gilnockie Tower
Step back in time and discover Gilnockie Tower, an extraordinary 16th-century Scottish tower house, beautifully preserved and featuring intricately carved stonework. One of its most striking features is the Beacon Lantern atop the south gable, a nod to its storied past. Under the dedicated care of Mr. Colin Armstrong, the current owner, Gilnockie Tower welcomes visitors daily, offering a unique glimpse into Scotland’s turbulent history.
Located near a bend in the Border Esk, Gilnockie Tower is easily visible from the A7 Carlisle to Edinburgh route. Follow the brown signs to the Gilnockie Tower, just north of Canonbie in Dumfries and Galloway, to reach this historic site.
For centuries, this area has been a crucial route into Scotland. Nearby, you’ll find the Roman fort of Broomholm, dating back to the reign of Emperor Agricola, and the Gilnockie Roman marching camp at Claygate—one of the best-preserved Roman camps in Eastern Dumfriesshire. To the south, where the River Esk meets the River Liddel, lie the ancient earthworks of Liddel Strength, a boundary of the once notorious Debateable Lands.
Gilnockie Tower is renowned as the ancestral home of the Armstrong clan and stands as one of the finest and best-preserved examples of a Scottish tower house or ‘pele.’ This four-story rubble-built structure, with its distinctive attic space between two large stone gables, measures 10 by 7.6 meters at the base. The basement, or vaulted cellar, is equipped with gun loops facing all four directions, while a spiral staircase, known as a wheel or wall-stair, winds up to the top of the building.
Inside, you’ll find the Great Hall on the first floor, followed by two additional rooms, including a master bedroom and an exhibition space. The attic space above leads to a fenced parapet walk, offering sweeping views across the former Debateable Lands. One of the tower’s most unique features is the beacon stance or lantern, corbelled out from the south gable—a remnant of its defensive history.
Now a welcoming visitor centre, Gilnockie Tower is cared for by a small but passionate team. However, its past is far from peaceful. Narrow windows were once used for firing shots at invaders, and during attacks, residents would retreat to the roof to hurl objects down at their foes. Raiders would often attempt to “scumfish” the tower, piling straw around the entrance and setting it alight in an effort to smoke out its occupants. Even if they breached the door, they would face challenges such as concealed trip-steps in the spiral staircases designed to hinder their progress.
As the laird’s residence, Gilnockie Tower once housed animals in the basement, while the first floor featured a multi-purpose fireplace. Herbs and flowers were scattered across the floors to freshen the air. When not under attack, life in the tower included hearty food, music, ballads, and storytelling. Outdoor activities like hunting with hounds or hawks, horse racing, and ball games were also common. One particularly notorious football match between rival reivers resulted in 30 prisoners and two dead!
Johnnie Armstrong, the infamous reiver hanged by a Scottish king, is said to have made Gilnockie his base, though historians have long debated the true location of his home. This historic landmark has inspired poets and artists alike—one painting famously depicts Johnnie riding home through the River Esk for the final time in 1530.
The reivers’ raids were most frequent in autumn through spring, when long nights and moonlight provided cover. Towers like Gilnockie were perfect for launching quick raids or carefully planned campaigns. The primary goal of these raids was to capture goods and livestock, destroy property, and return with as much useful plunder as possible. The journey home, however, was perilous, with raiders vulnerable to counterattacks. Signal beacons played a crucial role, with lanterns lighting up towers and hillsides to warn of approaching enemies. A single fire in the basket meant raiders were nearby; four fires signalled a large force on the move.
Come and explore Gilnockie Tower, where history, legend, and the spirit of the Border Reivers live on.
Langholm Castle
Langholm Castle, a 16th-century tower house built for the Armstrong family, stands at the confluence of the River Esk and Ewes Water on the northern outskirts of Langholm. This historic site, though largely in ruins, retains much of its south gable and offers a glimpse into the turbulent past of the Border Reivers.
To visit Langholm Castle, take the last left after the Kilngreen Car Park when approaching from the south. The castle is situated on the Castleholm, an area of land central to life in Langholm.
Built around 1526 by Christopher Armstrong of Barnglies, brother to the famous Johnnie Armstrong of Gilnockie, the castle was a stronghold of the Armstrong clan for over 80 years. Though it was burned down multiple times, it was finally destroyed by the forces of James VI during his journey to claim the English throne as James I.
Today, the remains of the castle lie near the Langholm racecourse, where the Langholm Horse Racing Association still organizes events under ‘Flapping Rules & Regulations.’ At the end of July every year the area around Langholm Castle entertains the traditional Langholm Common Riding.
Langholm is also renowned as a historic textile town, adding further richness to the cultural heritage of the area. Whether you’re exploring its ruins or attending a local event, Langholm Castle offers a fascinating glimpse into Scotland’s Borderland history. Ample parking available in this area for visitors.
Caerlanrig – The Grave of Johnnie Armstrong
Caerlanrig holds a sombre place in Border history as the site where the infamous reiver Johnnie Armstrong met a tragic end at the hands of King James V in the early 16th century. Today, visitors can view Johnnie’s gravestone and a nearby monument, marking one of the most poignant stops on the Border Reiver Trail 60.
Teviothead Kirk, located near the grave, adds to the story of betrayal. Invited by King James V to a meeting, Johnnie Armstrong of Gilnockie believed he was heading for a royal banquet. Instead, upon reaching the kirkyard at Caerlanrig, he was met with a grim fate—a rope hanging from a tree. His execution that day turned him into a legendary figure of Border folklore.
As one ballad recalls: “The trees on which the Armstrongs deed, Wi’ summer leaves were gay But lang before the harvest tide, They wither’d a’ away.”
Johnnie Armstrong’s grave, along with those of his men, lies within a wood-railed enclosure adjacent to Teviothead Kirkyard. This sacred site, maintained by The Reiver Trail (https://theborderreivertrail.co.uk/), but owned by the Clan Armstrong, and is open at all reasonable times, to visitors.
Adjacent to the kirkyard, a memorial was erected in the late 19th century by the Hawick Archaeological Society (https://hawickhistory.scot/) in honour of Johnnie’s legacy. That all said, recent research, once complete, may argue otherwise!
The current Teviothead Kirk, a beautiful structure built in 1856 with support from the Buccleuch family, stands nearby, offering both historical significance and architectural beauty to those exploring the area.
The Borderlands Museum (https://www.thecelticgoldsmith.com/the-borderlands-musuem), 300 metres to the north of Johnnie Armstrongs Grave, is a private shrine to Border History, exhibiting unique original artefacts from the Iron Age to the Reiver, telling the incredible story of The Anglo-Scottish
Border, its people and their impact around the World – through original artefacts and objects.
Custodians are working goldsmiths, consequently booking is essential.
Hermitage Castle
Hermitage Castle, known as the “Guardhouse to the bloodiest valley in Britain,” is a foreboding medieval fortress that dates back to the 13th century. Rooted in the turbulent history of the Scottish Borders, its imposing structure once served as a key stronghold for local clans, including the Armstrongs, Douglases, Elliots, Hepburns, and Scotts, the list goes on…
Originally built in the 12th or 13th century, Hermitage Castle was initially linked to the de Soulis family before passing into the hands of the powerful Douglas clan. Strategically positioned in the untamed Liddel Valley, the castle was a crucial administrative hub for controlling the Scottish Middle March, a region fraught with conflict and lawlessness.
Nearby, within the castle grounds, lies the 14th-century Hermitage Chapel, a testament to the site’s long history. The castle also has a deep connection with the Elliot Clan, who became its traditional keepers. Every four years, the Elliot Chief gathers clan members here to honour their ancestry.
Though now roofless and windswept, Hermitage Castle remains an awe-inspiring sight, steeped in mystery and legend. It is said that only the descendant of a Border Reiver would dare spend a night within its walls.
Liddesdale Heritage Centre
Once a valley marked by border raids and warfare, Liddesdale has a rich and diverse history beyond its Reiver past. A visit to the Liddesdale Heritage Centre reveals the region’s transformation through the centuries, from Reiving to the rise of the railway, the textile industry, farming, and forestry.
Newcastleton, founded in 1793 as a planned village and weaving centre, is home to the Liddesdale Heritage Centre. Established in 1985 by the Liddesdale Heritage Association, the centre is housed in a former Congregational Church. Visitors can explore census and tombstone records, along with artefacts from the old Waverley railway line that once connected Carlisle, Newcastleton, and Edinburgh.
A stunning bi-centenary tapestry beautifully depicts 200 years of life in this Scottish Borders village. The Elliot Clan, a prominent name in the region, also has a dedicated display, complete with a model of an Elliot tower and the bright blue Elliot tartan, famously designed by a countess to match the colour of her eyes. The current Elliot Chief resides at Redheugh, near Newcastleton. For more information, visit www.visitnewcastleton.com.
Mangerton Tower
Once a powerful Border Pele tower, Mangerton Tower served as the ancestral home of the Armstrongs in Liddesdale since the 13th century. Located at the south end of Newcastleton, the ruins of this historic tower stand as a reminder of the Clan Armstrong’s prominence and influence in the region.
Mangerton Tower was the seat of the Armstrong chiefs, with Alexander Armstrong, the 1st Chief, living there around 1320. His descendants remained at the tower until the Union of the Crowns in 1603. Over the centuries, the tower endured multiple attacks. It was burned in 1543, attacked again in 1569, and set on fire once more in 1601. By 1612, it was finally destroyed by the military forces of James VI of Scotland and I of England. In 1629, the site passed into the hands of the Scott family.
The last Armstrong laird, Archibald, was hanged in 1611 in Newcastle for raiding England and stealing cattle. His son fled, and his fate remains unknown, leaving the Armstrongs a “heidless” clan. Many family members later migrated to Ulster.
Today, only small portions of the west and south walls of Mangerton Tower remain visible. Notably, a weathered betrothal stone, dated 1583, can still be seen in the west wall, commemorating Symon Armstrong, a later chief, and his wife, Elizabeth Forster.
Access to the site is available via the Whithaugh road at the south end of Newcastleton, following the disused railway line. The site is maintained by the Armstrong Clan Association and is open to visitors at all reasonable times.
The Milnholm Cross
Standing at eight feet tall, the Milnholm Cross is the oldest relic associated with the Clan Armstrong. Located along the B6357 road, two miles south of Newcastleton, the monument sits on a knoll near a picnic site and lay-by.
Carved from stone, the cross features intricate but weathered engravings, including the iconic bent arm that symbolizes the Armstrong family. The cross was erected in memory of the 2nd Laird of Mangerton, who was treacherously slain at Hermitage Castle around 1300.
According to legend, the laird’s murder was tied to the infamous Lord de Soules, the tyrannical owner of Hermitage Castle. De Soules had developed an interest in a local girl, and when her father opposed him, he was killed.
Alexander Armstrong, the 2nd Laird of Mangerton, saved de Soules from a lynching by an angry crowd, only to be betrayed and killed after being invited to dine at Hermitage Castle.
Though this story has been passed down through generations and may have evolved over time, the Milnholm Cross remains a powerful symbol of the Armstrong legacy, facing the ancestral home of the family, Mangerton Tower.
Ettleton Graveyard
Located just inside the Scottish Border, near Newcastleton in Roxburghshire, Ettleton Graveyard is a poignant site steeped in the history of the Border Reivers. The cemetery, which features prominent names such as Armstrong and Elliot, is a testament to the area’s tumultuous past.
Ettleton Kirkyard, situated above the Milnholm Cross, offers a serene and reflective atmosphere, overlooking the Liddesdale hills. While today it is a peaceful resting place, it once echoed with the violence and turmoil of the Reiving era.
Outlaws from Liddesdale frequently conducted fierce raids into England from this very valley. Life was harsh and fleeting, with 30 years considered a long lifespan. For centuries, Ettleton served as a burial ground for the Armstrongs and other notable Reivers.
An interesting feature of the kirkyard is a memorial wall restored by the Clan Armstrong, which showcases Armstrong grave covers dating back to the 14th century. The enclosure also contains a collection of ancient crosses and shafts, awaiting further research and restoration.
Central to the graveyard is a tall obelisk commemorating an incident in the 19th century when an Armstrong was shot by the parson of Walton in Cumberland. The site also houses an extensive collection of historic Armstrong headstones, reflecting the rich heritage of the area.
Tourneyholm
Tourneyholm, located near the Anglo-Scottish Border at Kershopefoot, was the site where local March Wardens would hold the Day of Truce. During the 15th to 17th centuries, probably earlier, this area served as a crucial location for resolving cross-border disputes.
Standing at Tourneyholm, you are essentially in Scotland, yet only inches away from England. Today, the River Liddel and the smaller Kershopeburn mark a peaceful boundary between the two countries. However, four centuries ago, the fields at Kershopefoot were the scene of many violent confrontations.
Tourneyholm was a place of tournaments, trade, and even executions. It was where conflicts were resolved and issues addressed, often through single combat. On a mutually agreed ‘Day of Truce,’ local wardens would meet to settle disputes and exchange prisoners, who were either of significant value or involved in serious crimes requiring thorough trials.
During the Day of Truce, the English Warden would send a rider across the water to request 24 hours of peace until sunrise the next day. The Scots would send a horseman in response, and both Wardens would raise their hands as a sign of good faith. The English would then advance into Scotland until the following sunrise.
Tribunals were held by the river to judge wrongdoers, with a jury consisting of six Englishmen selected by the Scottish Warden and six Scotsmen chosen by the English Warden. ‘Traitors, murderers, fugitives, and betrayers’ were excluded from the jury. In 1563, a new penalty scale was introduced, valuing an ox at 40 shillings, a cow at 30 shillings, and stolen sheep and pigs at six shillings each. However, justice was not always swift; one case took six years of negotiation before a resolution was reached.
Just across the water stands a small monument known as the Tourney Stone, Truce Stone, or Laird Jock’s Stone. It is said to mark the spot where the infamous reiver Wee Jock Elliot fought and wounded the Scottish Warden, Lord Bothwell.
Lang Sandy
In the early 17th century, under King James VI of England, Lang Sandy Armstrong of Rowanburn met a grim fate for his notorious crimes of lawlessness and murder. A sandstone memorial now stands in his honour in Rowanburn, a small former mining village in Dumfries and Galloway, commemorating his life and the impact he had during his Reiving career.
Lang Sandy, towering over six feet tall, was a formidable figure in the 16th century—a true giant among men. For thirty years, he was one of the most audacious and feared reivers, striking terror into both Scottish and English hearts. His presence was synonymous with lawlessness, and his name was a source of dread for all.
Sandy’s stronghold, known as Cleughfoot, was a robust square building surrounded by a formidable stone barrier and heavy iron gate. The residence, equipped with iron-barred windows, was aptly named ‘Lang Sandy’s Keep’. It was strategically located by the Tarras Burn, about ten miles from Langholm, in
a desolate area known only to Sandy and his followers. The surrounding forest, dense and almost impenetrable, added to its fortification.
The end of Sandy’s reign came in 1603 when James VI of Scotland, soon to be crowned James I of England, began to enforce peace and order across his new kingdom. The era of reiving came to a close as the borders were ‘pacified’. The once-tolerated raids were no longer acceptable, and reivers were rounded up, or sent into exile.
Lang Sandy, along with his eleven sons, was executed as part of this crackdown. The Armstrongs, along with other border clans like the Elliots, Grahams, and Littles, faced severe consequences—many were killed, deported to Ulster (now Northern Ireland), or sent to fight abroad. Some clans, like the Scotts and Johnstones, adapted by transitioning from their former lives of conflict, to roles as lawyers, politicians, and wealthy landowners.
Today, you can see a life-sized red sandstone figurine of Lang Sandy in Rowanburn, a tribute to his storied past. The original wooden figure, carved from sycamore, has now passed into the pages of history.
The Border Reiver Trail is Complete
Now that you have completed The Border Reiver Trail 60 why no head back to Gilnockie Tower with any questions you may have, and enjoy a tea, coffee and a wee biscuit!
The ongoing plans for The Border Reiver Trail 60 remain under discussion, and will be launched on this website at sometime in the foreseeable future.
It is important that we go through the proper channels to obtain the necessary permissions and clearances before progressing further with the project. Our goal on the Scots side of the Borderlands is 21 sites, all relating to Border Family history. Below are but a few currently under discussion: –
